Viña and Valpo

Valparaíso y Viña del Mar: March 28-31

Day 1: Adiós Santiago, Hola Valpo.

The day we left for our trip was quite a whirlwind. We knew when we came back we wouldn’t be living in our hostel anymore (Deirdre [her blog is here. Check out her entry “Easter weekend family vacation” for what is most likely a much more detailed entry than this, she is much more timely with her blog than me!!] was moving into Nelly’s and I would be staying with friends until the second bedroom in Nelly’s house would be free two weeks later). So not only did we have to pack for the long weekend, we had to pack up ALL our belongings, lock them up, and pray they stayed safely bike locked to the hostel bunk beds while we were gone (don’t worry- they were).

Once we were all set to go, we shoved our duffels over our shoulders, and made our way down Vicuña Mackenna (the street the hostel was on) to metro Baqedano. From there we were faced with our first challenge- switching lines to get to the stop Sandra agreed to meet us at. It seemed fairly simple, get off at Los Heroes, and switch to the yellow line until we arrived at Cementerios. Only we blew right past that stop and arrived at the following one- Einstein. Dazed and confused, we kept trying to ask people how it was we missed the stop- but they only were kept making references to “green line” and “red line”. But we were on the yellow line!!!! I found out later as someone tried to explain to me that during rush hour, certain lines only stop at certain points to make commuting faster. Apparently it depends on what specific train you get on in regards to whether it will stop at “green” stops, “red” stops, or estación communes (stops where all trains stop- basically red/green). It’s very confusing because there is also the green LINE and red LINE- totally different from this system. I still don’t think I fully understand it…

Anyway, Sandra’s husband (well, former husband. We found out later they are separated) Juan Eduardo found us despite our navigation troubles and drove us to their house. We packed up the car, picked up the older daughter Lia from a friend’s house and we were off. It was nearly midnight when we finally arrived. The family has their own apartment there- so moving in for the weekend went very smoothly. Once we finished though we were all tired and hungry and, just in time, Juan Eduardo introduced us to “picoteo”- it’s basically a little mini meal- similar in nature to appetizers. Much to our delight we found out later this prelude would be a common feature in our meals.

Day 2: Exploring Valpo

Friday we slept in late and had a late breakfast of coffee and toast. Juan Eduardo was not feeling well, so Sandra took her daughters (Lia and Valeria) and Deirdre and myself out to show us some key sights in Valpo. It is a very interesting city. It is undeniably beautiful in many regards- the houses are all different colors and is a photographers dream come true. However, it is also a bit rundown and dirty in parts.

Even much of the graffiti, though, is quite beautifully done. We took a little trolley car up a hill to get a better view, which led to a whole host of artisan markets  or “ferías”.

Because our breakfast was so light Sandra suggested we stop for a “tentenpie”- a quick meal when you’re out to keep you on the go, or literally, on your feet. It was simple but delicious- coffee or tea and cookies- one of my favorite combinations! Sandra and Juan Eduardo had already been quite financially generous- so I resisted the urge to order a latte and opted for a more affordable- “Americano”- which I later found out was a euphemism for “weak coffee”. I take offense to that, Chile!! It was quite funny to see little Valeria drink down a latte though!

We stopped back to the house for a delicious lunch of fish, rice, vegetables, and white wine. After we went back out and shopped at some more affordable souvenir stands (you’ll all just have to wait and see what you get!). We met up with some family members of Sandra, had a pre-dinner cocktail at a very quaint restaurant that overlooked the city, and had dinner back at the apartment with them. Much of the conversation was lost on me- but Juan Eduardo, who was feeling better by this point, always made a point to keep me included by switching into English occasionally and encouraging me to use my Spanish, and for that I was very grateful. Everyone in that family is incredibly kind. It melted my heart watching little Vale salsa dance with Juan Eduardo. It made me miss my family but I was so grateful to be in such loving company.

Day 3: Valpo Continued and Viña del Mar

We were happy to learn that Juan Eduardo was feeling much better and would therefore be accompanying us on our adventures this morning!

We explored one of Pablo Neruda's houses.

And learned about the Congreso Nacional de Chile.

We weren’t sure what the plans were for the rest of the day, as Sandra had mentioned we would go to Viña del Mar today. The older daughter Lia ended up taking us there (a short bus ride) and gave us a little tour. The weather wasn’t exactly ideal for this beach town- much too cold for swimming and uncharacteristically cloudy (at least compared to the way Santiago had been thus far), but we still managed to take lots of pictures (Lia was so patient with us!) and had a great time. I managed to stick my feet in the Pacific ocean for the first time, and nearly lost my shoes from the tide in the process! The sunset was beyond gorgeous, and we found some DELICIOUS churros! Reunited at last! We also shopped at another fería and I bought some more great gifts and souvenirs.

We went out for a late dinner once we returned from Viña, which was a fun way to spend out last night here. It was called El Cinzano and was a really cool place. The decorations were great and there was live music- always a plus. We had to wait awhile, which was funny because it was nearly 11 pm! The food was more than worth it though. I had a delicious salmon dish and tried some of the clams Sandra and Juan Eduardro recommended, “machas a la parmesana”. Delicious!

Day 4:

Happy Easter! We awoke bright and early (okay- 10 am) for an Easter Egg hunt! We were warned the night before this would be happening- and Vale in particular warned she would bring her a-game! However, we were all a little lackadaisical as we hunted for our “huevitos” (little chocolate eggs- basically the main source of Easter candy here. I don’t believe the Easter Basket tradition that is common in the United States is as common here) especially since there were so many!! However- a girl’s gotta have her chocolate- so like the other’s I loaded up! I indulged in a few with breakfast- man were they good! I couldn’t help but think back to Easter 2006 when I was also away from family. It was over the week I went to Spain on my high school trip, and where this whole traveling bug was sparked. While I missed my family a lot, I managed to talk to my parents briefly given the grace of the app Viber, and I thought about how grateful I was to have this opportunity and how lucky I was to spend Easter with such a kind family.

After breakfast we packed up the car and headed back to Santiago. We briefly stopped at a relatives house, and then stopped at a well known restaurant for lunch. We had to wait a little while- but man was it worth it! Juan Eduardo ordered a delicious steak dish for us, and we shared French fries, ensalada chilena, pebre, and warm soft delicious bread. Definitely different from my usual Easter dinner, but wonderful nonetheless.

I can’t stress again how lucky I was to spend this weekend in such good company. As it is my first time on a long term trip abroad, I underestimated how lonely it can be on holidays when you miss your family, and Sandra, Juan Eduardo, Lia and Vale took Deirdre and me in with open arms. Hopefully we will get to see them again before the end of our trip to attempt to repay their kindness!