PUCÓN

PUCON

Weekend trip #3: April 11^th to April 14^th. Deidre and I kept our trend of taking a weekend trip every other weekend (though this trip also concluded that trend, when our bank accounts told us to calm down on the spontaneity and adventure- for another month or so at least). One day at the office, we heard a group of girls talk about their amazing trip to a place south of Santiago called Pucón. I hung on to every word as they recalled how they took amazing hikes, soaked in natural hot springs, and climbed a VOLCANO.

This volcano, in fact.

I looked at my friend Amy- and we were sold. We were originally going to plan the trip for the weekend of April 4-7, but as we literally just got back from Valparaiso, we figured we should spend a little more time in Santiago before we traipse off again. That is the great thing about living in this city though- it is fairly easy to do just that- buy a round trip bus ticket, book a cheap hostel online, and take off for the weekend. The bus tickets round trip came to about only $50 USD, and the hostel was super cheap as well. It was fairly small, but cabin like and cozy and the staff was extremely friendly and helpful. If anyone goes there, I highly recommend it: http://www.hostalelrefugio.cl/en. They had two options for sleeping: either in the dorms or double rooms (which were a little pricier) or tents outside (the cheaper option). Feeling adventurous, Deirdre and I opted to stay in the tent. We consulted with the girls who went before us and they recommended it. In addition, one of the girls from our company actually WORKED at that hostel before finding a job with TLC (the lang. co) and she assured us that we would be warm enough and our belongings would be safe there. They had lockers in the tent and there were multiple down comforters on the bed, and they gave us a hot water bottle to use! For someone who is ALWAYS cold at night I was worried, but it was actually really comfortable!

To get there, we took an overnight bus with the company Tur Bus. So on Thursday night around 10, Deidre, Amy, Amy’s boyfriend John (who was visiting from Canada) and I took the metro about 8 stops or so. The bus “station” was literally connected to the subcentro, so we waited right there for a little while until our bus rolled in at 11. This was also quite a comfortable experience- they had “semicamas” (cama=bed), which meant the seats reclined a great deal. The bus also had T.Vs that aired a movie, and breakfast snacks in the morning. They even had someone come around and place a pillow behind our head and a blanket on us, stopping just short of tucking us in. South America- I’m impressed!

We rolled into our hostel around 9 but unfortunately couldn’t check in our rooms- er, um, tent- until the afternoon. However this gave us time to talk with the staff and plan our weekend. We originally wanted to hike the park Herquehue Friday, climb the Volcano Saturday, and relax and soak in the hot springs on Sunday. This didn’t quite go as planned. We were unable to make the bus that left for Herquehue in time, so we had to push that to a later date. Also, the hostel runs the tours for the Volcano, and they only do it when the weather cooperates. Unfortunately this meant we had to do the Volcano on Sunday, our last day in town. We decided to do Herquehue on Saturday and check out the hot springs that night. We hopped to go horseback riding too, but alas, that tour was already full.

So we explored the town a little and took in the fresh air our lungs so craved after being smoggy Santiago for so long. The town is so quaint- it reminds me a lot of the Adirondacks in upstate New York. We stopped for lunch at a restaurant that was recommended to us by the staff, and ordered Cazuela- a typical Chilean soup. It’s made with a light chicken broth, beef, lots of veggies (a quarter of a corn on the cob, carrots, potatoes, and others). Oh, and cilantro. Lot’s of cilantro. A little much for my liking, but other than that the soup was good. Not my favorite dish ever, but in that moment it hit the spot. We also had sopapilla- fried delicious bread- then, which sparked a subsequent (though unfortunate in regards to how my jeans have been fitting!!!) obsession.
 

Our journey to the hot springs was interesting. The bus driver didn’t quite know where we were going, despite our attempts to explain. We certainly ended up at a beautiful location with hot pools of water- but the fact that it was more expensive than we were told it would be and the presence of lockers and showers pretty much indicated that it was a spa. But hey- who’s a girl to turn down a hot tub?! And MAN was it HOT! It was almost a little unsettling at first, but once I adjusted I absolutely loved it. There was a nearby pool that was a little cooler, so when it did become a little much with the sun beating down too, we would switch back and forth.

After we arrived back at the hostel, Deirdre and I began our quest for one of our favorite things- finding somewhere to go out to dinner. We asked several people where we could find good salmon- yet we were so hungry we literally stopped at the first Italian restaurant we saw. Hey- it’d been a long time since we had good pasta- ya know, higher quality than the cheapest brand of spaghetti Lider (aka Chile’s walmart) has to offer. It was a really cute place- clearly a family run business as two teenagers brought us to the table and picked up their pace when their adult family members returned. They even had Friends on the TV! Dinner itself was a little strange though. We were literally the only ones there, on a Friday night at 8 p.m. Thus, we could hear the microwave ding. Yes, you heard that correctly, they heated up our food in the microwave, and unfortunately, you could tell. Don’t get me wrong, I’m no chef, but when you go out to eat you just don’t expect that. Then after they served us, the entire large family proceeded to sit down and have something like a family dinner of their own. It led us to wonder if they were really open, and we felt a little bit like intruders.

When we returned to the hostel we played some cards with Amy and John, which I recommend that no one ever do if you want to retain any ounce of dignity you have, because, as everyone in our program knows, Amy is a hardcore CARD SHARK! It’s always the quiet ones…. But seriously, when I stopped her from “shooting the moon” or doing something dangerous and complicated sounding when playing Hearts I though this seemingly sweet little French Canadian girl was going to cut me!!!

Copihue- Chile's national flower

We were up bright and early to catch a bus Saturday morning for Parque Herquehue. It is a rather large park and consequently long hike, but with beautiful forests and views of lakes. We didn’t do nearly all of it as we wanted to conserve some energy for the Volcano the following day, but we still had a great time. We saw lots of animals along the way too, and had to exert great strength not to take these three little kittens home with us. Luckily John was there to be the heartless soul who scarred the cats enough so they would eventually give up following us and return home.

We had a meeting at the hostel in the evening for everyone who planned to climb the Volcano the following day. It was a little nerve wracking, as we essentially had to sign our life away in case anything happened, but the instructors seemed very friendly and gave us detailed instructions about what would happen the following day.

Basically we had to get up at the crack of dawn and meet in the hostel lobby to wait for the tour guides to arrive. Then they handed out gear, and we tried our shoes and backpacks on to make sure everything was a good fit. We loaded up our snacks and water in our bags, and hit the road. Nearly everyone slept on the way there, but when we finally arrived, the majestic sunrise over the mountains woke me up, and a rush of adrenaline replaced the butterflies that were previously fluttering away inside me. Here we are, let’s do this.

We made our way to the base of the Volcano, and here came the first fork in the road: take the chairlift for 7,000 CLP ($14 USD) or an additional couple of hours up the steepest part of the mountain. Several people we talked to about the Volcano advised us to just take the chair lift as the energy we would save would be well worth it. So while a few of the fitter members of the group opted to climb their way up to meet us, Deirdre, John, Amy, and I enjoyed a nice smooth ride up a significant part of the mountain and the beautiful views it allowed. Okay, perhaps that was a little generous. We basically sat as still as statues with our gear on our laps, because unlike normal ski lifts, this one did not have a safety bar, so one wrong move, splat, you’re a volcano pancake.

The view from this point was even more beautiful, but we had little time to enjoy it as our guides were eager to begin the hike. After resituating a little, we began our ascent. For the first hour or so we made a couple stops periodically, and I thought to myself, okay, so far so good, this isn’t bad at all. However, we later learned this was definitely not the precedent for the rest of the hike, it was more of an opportunity to adjust clothing as the weather conditions changed rapidly.

The last leg of the hike was by far the hardest. We hiked for what felt like hours, though in reality it was probably little more than an hour straight. The wind made it especially difficult- people were literally blowing over and falling down (my knees were scarified many times because of this). Several songs were running through my head at time, among them “Just keep swimming, just keep swimming” and “put one foot in front of the other”. It’s amazing how a task like this focuses you. While the wind was blowing at my face, my nose was incessantly running, and my stomach was starting to rumble, the entirety of my mental capacities was focused on doing exactly what those songs said. Keep going. Left foot, right foot. After what seemed like an eternity, we finally stopped for a lunch break. Everyone huddled around some large rocks to sit while they ate- but frankly, the ten extra feet to get to said rock was out of the question for me. I literally plopped down and sat on my backpack in the middle of the snow. No Amy I don’t want to come over and sit with you to eat. I love you, I’m sorry, but I’m NOT moving!!! No tour guide I don’t care that my snow pants are getting wet!!!!

Once I had some peanut butter in me, my mood improved, and after readjusting my gear I took and posed for some great pictures. I’m sure you’re tired of hearing me say how beautiful the view was, so rather than try to consult a thesaurus in vain, I’ll just show you:

Everyone stopping for a much deserved break.

Some random commercial or marketing company also tried to interview me, once in English then again in Spanish, both of which we equally interesting, seeing as how I still had difficulty walking and breathing.

However, after I was fed and rehydrated my adrenaline perked back up a litte. This was it, I thought, the last part until we get to the crater! To see actual lava! Okay then, why aren’t we going? Why are all the tour guides just standing there talking. When I asked why we weren’t going, he sighed exasperatedly to indicate his frustration at my apparent lack of listening (okay- did he not realize the necessities of wallowing in my exhaustion/eating/drinking/posing for pictures? Those were very time consuming activities.) He pointed to a man at the top of the mountain who literally was billowing in the wind.

This pretty much said it all- no ascent to the crater today. The weather conditions were such that it wouldn’t be safe to do so. Not only was it extremely windy, but apparently it was also very icy at the top. Seeing my disappointed face, he said with annoyance that it is a serious matter and that people have died before when the conditions weren’t safe. Clearly I had the utmost respect for their abilities and knowledge, and I had no interest in falling in a crater, but I couldn’t deny my disappointment. Those who have reached the top described the views and experience as unbelievable. And we just climbed up for hours up this mountain, only to turn around now. But, such is life. I reveled in the view and the amount we had already accomplished that day and resolved I would find another mountain to climb, start to finish, that may or may not include a crater at the top.

When we got back into the shuttles to take us back to the hostel, I couldn’t believe it was only 1 pm. Are you kidding me?!? We were only hiking for a couple of hours!? While it was a huge slice of humble pie to learn this, it was nice to know we had the rest of the day to relax and enjoy the town before our overnight bus took off. Our tour guides asked if we would like some adult beverages on the way back, but I thought they were kidding as no one really responded. However, they certainly came through. After we returned our gear at the hostel we saw several one liter bottles of Escudo, a popular Chilean beer, on the picnic table. Well don’t mind if I do! It was pretty cool of them to provide this for free, and after the hike we had we certainly deserved it!

Some of our awesome guides!

We spent the rest of the day relaxing, and watched the sunset on the lake. If anyone reading this ever goes to Chile, I can’t recommend Pucón enough! It reminds me so much of the Adirondacks, and after spending so much time living and working in a big city, it was great to get away.

Just be ware of eruptions….

….just kidding!

Viña and Valpo

Valparaíso y Viña del Mar: March 28-31

Day 1: Adiós Santiago, Hola Valpo.

The day we left for our trip was quite a whirlwind. We knew when we came back we wouldn’t be living in our hostel anymore (Deirdre [her blog is here. Check out her entry “Easter weekend family vacation” for what is most likely a much more detailed entry than this, she is much more timely with her blog than me!!] was moving into Nelly’s and I would be staying with friends until the second bedroom in Nelly’s house would be free two weeks later). So not only did we have to pack for the long weekend, we had to pack up ALL our belongings, lock them up, and pray they stayed safely bike locked to the hostel bunk beds while we were gone (don’t worry- they were).

Once we were all set to go, we shoved our duffels over our shoulders, and made our way down Vicuña Mackenna (the street the hostel was on) to metro Baqedano. From there we were faced with our first challenge- switching lines to get to the stop Sandra agreed to meet us at. It seemed fairly simple, get off at Los Heroes, and switch to the yellow line until we arrived at Cementerios. Only we blew right past that stop and arrived at the following one- Einstein. Dazed and confused, we kept trying to ask people how it was we missed the stop- but they only were kept making references to “green line” and “red line”. But we were on the yellow line!!!! I found out later as someone tried to explain to me that during rush hour, certain lines only stop at certain points to make commuting faster. Apparently it depends on what specific train you get on in regards to whether it will stop at “green” stops, “red” stops, or estación communes (stops where all trains stop- basically red/green). It’s very confusing because there is also the green LINE and red LINE- totally different from this system. I still don’t think I fully understand it…

Anyway, Sandra’s husband (well, former husband. We found out later they are separated) Juan Eduardo found us despite our navigation troubles and drove us to their house. We packed up the car, picked up the older daughter Lia from a friend’s house and we were off. It was nearly midnight when we finally arrived. The family has their own apartment there- so moving in for the weekend went very smoothly. Once we finished though we were all tired and hungry and, just in time, Juan Eduardo introduced us to “picoteo”- it’s basically a little mini meal- similar in nature to appetizers. Much to our delight we found out later this prelude would be a common feature in our meals.

Day 2: Exploring Valpo

Friday we slept in late and had a late breakfast of coffee and toast. Juan Eduardo was not feeling well, so Sandra took her daughters (Lia and Valeria) and Deirdre and myself out to show us some key sights in Valpo. It is a very interesting city. It is undeniably beautiful in many regards- the houses are all different colors and is a photographers dream come true. However, it is also a bit rundown and dirty in parts.

Even much of the graffiti, though, is quite beautifully done. We took a little trolley car up a hill to get a better view, which led to a whole host of artisan markets  or “ferías”.

Because our breakfast was so light Sandra suggested we stop for a “tentenpie”- a quick meal when you’re out to keep you on the go, or literally, on your feet. It was simple but delicious- coffee or tea and cookies- one of my favorite combinations! Sandra and Juan Eduardo had already been quite financially generous- so I resisted the urge to order a latte and opted for a more affordable- “Americano”- which I later found out was a euphemism for “weak coffee”. I take offense to that, Chile!! It was quite funny to see little Valeria drink down a latte though!

We stopped back to the house for a delicious lunch of fish, rice, vegetables, and white wine. After we went back out and shopped at some more affordable souvenir stands (you’ll all just have to wait and see what you get!). We met up with some family members of Sandra, had a pre-dinner cocktail at a very quaint restaurant that overlooked the city, and had dinner back at the apartment with them. Much of the conversation was lost on me- but Juan Eduardo, who was feeling better by this point, always made a point to keep me included by switching into English occasionally and encouraging me to use my Spanish, and for that I was very grateful. Everyone in that family is incredibly kind. It melted my heart watching little Vale salsa dance with Juan Eduardo. It made me miss my family but I was so grateful to be in such loving company.

Day 3: Valpo Continued and Viña del Mar

We were happy to learn that Juan Eduardo was feeling much better and would therefore be accompanying us on our adventures this morning!

We explored one of Pablo Neruda's houses.

And learned about the Congreso Nacional de Chile.

We weren’t sure what the plans were for the rest of the day, as Sandra had mentioned we would go to Viña del Mar today. The older daughter Lia ended up taking us there (a short bus ride) and gave us a little tour. The weather wasn’t exactly ideal for this beach town- much too cold for swimming and uncharacteristically cloudy (at least compared to the way Santiago had been thus far), but we still managed to take lots of pictures (Lia was so patient with us!) and had a great time. I managed to stick my feet in the Pacific ocean for the first time, and nearly lost my shoes from the tide in the process! The sunset was beyond gorgeous, and we found some DELICIOUS churros! Reunited at last! We also shopped at another fería and I bought some more great gifts and souvenirs.

We went out for a late dinner once we returned from Viña, which was a fun way to spend out last night here. It was called El Cinzano and was a really cool place. The decorations were great and there was live music- always a plus. We had to wait awhile, which was funny because it was nearly 11 pm! The food was more than worth it though. I had a delicious salmon dish and tried some of the clams Sandra and Juan Eduardro recommended, “machas a la parmesana”. Delicious!

Day 4:

Happy Easter! We awoke bright and early (okay- 10 am) for an Easter Egg hunt! We were warned the night before this would be happening- and Vale in particular warned she would bring her a-game! However, we were all a little lackadaisical as we hunted for our “huevitos” (little chocolate eggs- basically the main source of Easter candy here. I don’t believe the Easter Basket tradition that is common in the United States is as common here) especially since there were so many!! However- a girl’s gotta have her chocolate- so like the other’s I loaded up! I indulged in a few with breakfast- man were they good! I couldn’t help but think back to Easter 2006 when I was also away from family. It was over the week I went to Spain on my high school trip, and where this whole traveling bug was sparked. While I missed my family a lot, I managed to talk to my parents briefly given the grace of the app Viber, and I thought about how grateful I was to have this opportunity and how lucky I was to spend Easter with such a kind family.

After breakfast we packed up the car and headed back to Santiago. We briefly stopped at a relatives house, and then stopped at a well known restaurant for lunch. We had to wait a little while- but man was it worth it! Juan Eduardo ordered a delicious steak dish for us, and we shared French fries, ensalada chilena, pebre, and warm soft delicious bread. Definitely different from my usual Easter dinner, but wonderful nonetheless.

I can’t stress again how lucky I was to spend this weekend in such good company. As it is my first time on a long term trip abroad, I underestimated how lonely it can be on holidays when you miss your family, and Sandra, Juan Eduardo, Lia and Vale took Deirdre and me in with open arms. Hopefully we will get to see them again before the end of our trip to attempt to repay their kindness!